The Insect
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Cochineal was harvested and used by the Aztecs. Europeans discovered it in the sixteenth century and began to export the insects. The dye source was heavily exploited until a synthetic red was developed nearly three centuries later. However, synthetic red dyes often leached harmful chemicals, like arsenic, and cochineal continued to remain an important source of red color.[2]
How to Harvest
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The insects brushed off the plant and then submerged in hot water, exposed to sunlight, or baked in an oven to kill them. It takes roughly 70,000 insects to create a 1lb of dyestuff. Because of the harvest method and the amount required, cochineal is relatively expensive by weight. [1] Cochineal can often be purchased from dye supply houses or imported, in whole or powdered form.[2]
How to Extract Color
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Cochineal is very sensitive to pH. A pH of 4.5 leads to oranges, 4.5-6.5 produces red tones, and neutral pH leads to purples. [2] Adding cream of tartar to the dye solution will help increase the color yield. A tin mordant or amendment will help retain a bright scarlet red. An ammonia dip after dyeing will help create stable purples. Iron will also create purples. Mixing cochineal with marigolds or fustic will produce oranges. [1] Historically, lime juice was used to create an acidic solution, thus enhancing the brought reds. [2] Cochineal is also not lightfast, and will fade over time when exposed.